蛞蝓用氯化鉀大概沒甚麼太大效用,M屬蛞蝓之前我都泡到飽和濃度了還是活跳跳.
RX 好像有點用不過那也都加到超出標示的劑量了,而且不能下主缸.

原本某些鈕扣逐頭萎縮,跑了鉀之後就止住了

應該可以治專找鈕扣的蛞蝓

請問大大,你泡的飽和濃度是多少劑量對應水量?

很想用Rx跑主缸,但是問了很多人都沒試過

如果跑完Rx換整缸水加活性碳,能不能行的通
 
原本某些鈕扣逐頭萎縮,跑了鉀之後就止住了

應該可以治專找鈕扣的蛞蝓

請問大大,你泡的飽和濃度是多少劑量對應水量?

很想用Rx跑主缸,但是問了很多人都沒試過

如果跑完Rx換整缸水加活性碳,能不能行的通


飽和的話就是下了一堆氯化鉀到不會融化的程度.

海蛞蝓實在太多種了,之前進了幾顆紅單苞,都已經先泡了氯化鉀再經RX 兩道除蟲,
然後關燈後馬上看到3隻小指頭大小的海蛞蝓出來逛大街,
我是不覺得海蛞蝓有這麼容易處理啦...

活性碳不是甚麼都能吸,RX 也不知道主成分是啥, RX 下主缸還是別試了吧!
 
兩個多月前小弟整缸滿滿的扁蟲(是對sps殺傷力最大的那種),大的約小指甲,小的約米粒,幾乎每顆都中,sps的基部全是扁蟲蛋,縮毛 退色 破皮....嚴重甚至死亡,當初試過無數化學藥劑,抱著不成功就撤缸的心態,終於找到最好的殺扁蟲藥,就是KCl,讓扁蟲因鉀離子中毒而死,氯化鉀比市面上任何扁蟲藥更好用更便宜(先跟所有有賣扁蟲藥的贊助商say sorry),臭酸曾叫我分享此文章,因為前一陣子釣魚沒空,一直拖到現在才分享:em01:

相信南部不少人(包括我)已成功下主缸殺完所有扁蟲,而且sps傷亡超低,甚至零傷亡,以下是我的分享,適用於任何珊瑚的簡疫(SPS和LPS皆可),亦可下主缸殺紅火蟻和槍蝦

*以下劑量以殺扁蟲和紅火蟻為設計

1.檢疫
1L海水對應麥當勞玉米農湯湯匙的KCL半匙(亦可更多一點),攪拌溶解後,再放入sps或LPS(請珍惜生命先將sps的共生蝦蟹挑出來:em03:),浸泡20~30分鐘,扁蟲會全數死亡飄出,sps要拿出來前先在溶液中晃幾下,讓少數卡在sps上的扁蟲順利掉落,再將sps放回主缸乾淨的水,若sps健康應該一小時內就會展毛,若在sps浸泡期間發現吐黏膜(吐共生藻)或稍微退色,那些都是正常現象,代表sps還算健康,2~7天就會復原,若是sps泡完KCL後脫皮,那只能說那顆sps早在頻死狀況,您無須太難過:em05:



2.主缸下KCl殺扁蟲和紅火蟻
主缸下KCl一般療程最完美是1個月內3次(我只下2次),也就是說第1天下藥後隔15天再下藥,再隔15下最後一次,其目的是為了確保剛孵出的小扁蟲也徹底殺死,以下分幾點說明:


(1)生物對鉀離子耐受度不一
一般小甲殼類在600PPM已經中毒,較嬌弱的清潔蝦 共生蝦蟹 機械蝦...等會慢慢死亡,若是你的魚缸這類生物莫名其妙的死,即表示鉀離子已過高,一般藍腳寄居蟹和小螃蟹可耐受至700PPM,槍蝦則更高!以我下藥經驗,兩次下藥讓總水體鉀離子超過1500PPM,浸泡30分鐘的結果,扁跳蝦 小槍蝦 剛毛蟲幾近全死,當初以為連槍蝦都殺的一乾二淨,結果還有兩隻較大的槍蝦倖存,如果將浸泡時間拉長,或許可以一並解決槍蝦的問題! 至於魚類對鉀離子的耐受度一般也在600~700PPM,700PPM的鉀離子足以讓缸中的魚全數死亡(只是時間長短罷了),曾經在主缸一瞬間下至700PPM鉀離子,結果眼見黃三角和藍面立刻心臟麻痺休克,隨即撈起放入正常海水沖,所幸都有救活,生物對鉀離子耐受度不一,並沒有辦法對每一種生物去做耐受度實驗,故在我們下藥之前,要儘可能將所有生物撈起(包括 魚 蝦 寄居蟹 食藻螺 湯皮參 海膽.....)才不會因為下藥後大量生物死忙,造成硝化系統的負擔


(2)關於劑量
一般有在補鉀離子的缸子其鉀離子約在400~500PPM,下藥劑量1kg/500L海水(可增加1000PPM),可使總水體鉀離子達1500PPM;若是沒在補鉀的缸子,建議下藥劑量1.25kg/500L海水,亦可使總水體鉀離子達1500PPM,先用大水桶在缸外溶解適當用量的KCl,再緩緩加入主缸,絕對不可將粉狀KCl直接投入主缸,下藥後不關主循環和造流,有流可以幫助死忙的扁蟲由珊瑚體表吹出,讓珊瑚浸泡30分鐘(此時可以好好欣賞扁蟲被殺死的盛況),待30分鐘後再盡量將海水全部抽出換新海水


(3)下藥後的影響
即便你將生物抓了再乾淨,下藥後活石中其實有很多生物死亡,瞬間大量有機鹽類增加,爆藻是必然的!來個100~200隻寄居蟹配合幾隻倒吊,再加上勤換慮綿和吸附劑,相信各為sps高手控制鹽類的能力都很好,這個不是問題,在此不再多說! sps因為鹽類波動而走下波約2~3週,隨著鹽類穩定降低後會慢慢的回色


(4)關於KCl對扁蟲卵的殺傷力
個人認為高濃度鉀是能殺死扁蟲卵的,以上次經驗來說,第一次下藥,整缸飄出大大小小約400~500隻扁蟲,擔心扁蟲卵有卵膜保護殺不死,隔15天待卵孵化再下第二次藥,果然還有扁蟲,都是剛孵出的0.1公分的,但總數不到10隻,顯然多數卵因高濃度鉀而死亡,理論上,為了安全起見應該下第3次,但是我偷懶沒下第3次,至少在我缸中目前為止不再有扁蟲的蹤跡


以上分享屬個人智慧財產權,可收藏,但是要轉載請務必經過本人SYJ(蕭于傑)同意


為了讓文章可以分享更廣
本文在syj阿傑同意下特別請danmhippo兄代為翻譯為英文
不過不管是原本或是翻譯的英文,在沒有作者'、譯者的授權使用下請不要將完整或部份的文章
任意的轉貼到其他網站

*****以下文章為上頭的英文版*****

About 2 months ago my reef tank had an outbreak of flatworms (the one’s that is lethal to SPS). Some of the flatworms are the size of pinky nails, and some as small as rice grains. They have covered on almost all SPS in the tank. Flatworm eggs litters over the base of SPS. Tentacles retracted, colors faded, tissues bloated, and some died eventually. I have tried many chemicals, every time thinking this is the last resort, and finally I found the best solution to this problem, that is Potassium Chloride, killing flatworms by potassium poisoning. KCl is cheaper than any other medication on the market (…….and apologies to all flatworm medication makers………).

I have shared this to many aquarists in my area, and including myself, have successfully rid flatworm outbreaks, and fatality of SPS is extremely low. In many cases, the treatment yields no fatality of SPS at all.

Below is my guideline for potassium dosing, and this is useful as coral dip, as well as to be used to treat entire tank for the red bugs, flatworms and pistol shrimps.

1. As the dip (Dosage for killing red bugs and flatworms)
Mix 1 McDonald soup-spoon of KCl to one liter of seawater (need not be exact). Mix well and let dissolve. Dip the SPS or LPS in the solution for 20~30 minutes. Flatworms will die and float away from the coral. You should swirl the coral in the KCl solution to help dislodging those more stubborn ones. After the treatment, place the coral back to the tank. Please remove any crustaceans that you wish to keep before this procedure, eg. symbiotic crabs.

After treatment, healthy SPS should extend the tentacles within an hour. It is normal to observe excess mucous on the SPS, in rare cases, slight color fading. This indicates the SPS is still in good health which responds immediately to changes. However if the SPS RTN severely, it is indication that the SPS is already very weak.

2. To treat entire tank for red bugs and flatworms
Maintank dosing is best done with 3 treatments. 15 days apart between each treatment. I did only 2 treatments last time. In another word, second treatment administered 15 days after the first. This is to ensure flatworm larvae are all killed. To administer, you must acknowledge below:
a. Potassium tolerance differences
Small crustaceans generally does not tolerate more than 600ppm of potassium. At this level, the more delicate cleaner shrimp, symbiotic shrimps, camel shrimps…etc. will die slowly. If not treating your tank and you still noticed crustaceans slowly die in your tank, chances are your tank potassium level is too high. Some hermit and small hitchhiker crabs could tolerate up to 700ppm of potassium, and pistol shrimps can go higher.

I have done 2 dips at level exceeds 1500ppm. Each for 30 minutes dip at this level, amphipod, small pistol shrimps, and fireworm have all died. Just when I think I have killed all pistol shrimps too, 2 larger pistols were later discovered survived. The 2 larger pistols could have been killed, maybe, if I have dipped longer.

Fish also have limited tolerance of potassium at 600~700ppm. At 700ppm, this level is enough to kill most of the fish in the tank, or just a matter of time. There were one case where the Pomacanthus xanthometopon and Zebrasoma flavescens goes straight into shocks when I suddenly raised the main tank potassium level to 700ppm. I immediately put both into clean seawater and luckily they both survived. Every organism’s tolerance of potassium level is different, and it is difficult as hobbyist to test each specie for their tolerance level. Thus we should always net out all non-coral organisms out of the tank prior to the tank treatment.

b. Dosage
Those that supplement potassium to the tank usually tried to maintain it at 400~500ppm. Knowing you should already have this level present in the tank, we must include them into our final concentration. For these tanks, adding 1kg of KCL per 500 liter of seawater (raising 1000ppm) would make the total concentration to 1500ppm (original 500ppm + added 1000ppm).

Those tanks that do not regularly dose potassium, I would recommend to add 1.25kg of KCl per each 500 liter of seawater, which also brings the potassium level of the tank to 1500ppm.

It is important that you should always totally dissolve KCl outside of the tank, and pour the dissolved mixture to mix with the tank. KCl powder may not dissolve completely if you simply pour the powder into the tank.

Water flow need not be turned off after dosing. The water flow actually helps dislodging the flatworm from the surfaces. Dosing should take 30 minutes (you can now sit back, and enjoy the flatworms floating up to heaven). Afterwards, drain treated water out of the system as much as possible, and replace with fresh new seawater.

c. After dosing,
Even if you think you have removed all non-coral organisms out of the tank before dosing, chances are that there will be many more still left in the tank, and have died during this process. Nutrient explosion and algae bloom usually follows immediately. Biological means of nutrient removal (hermits, herbivores) in combination with vigorous mechanical filtration are highly recommended after dosing. Most SPS experts are veterans at nutrient control and should be capable of handling this situation. SPS coloration may shifts due to availability of excess nutrient, but should return back to normal in a few weeks.

d. KCl effectiveness on flatworm eggs.
It is my personal opinion that high level of potassium should be able to kill flatworm eggs. My last experience is that after the first treatment, and second treatment follows after 15 days. Sure enough, there are still flatworms died on the second treatment, but all are less than 1mm in length, and no more than 10 of them. It is apparent that most eggs were killed in the first treatment due to high level of potassium. To be safe, I should administer a third treatment, but I was lazy, and flatworms were no where to be found after second treatment anyway.
兩個多月前小弟整缸滿滿的扁蟲(是對sps殺傷力最大的那種),大的約小指甲,小的約米粒,幾乎每顆都中,sps的基部全是扁蟲蛋,縮毛 退色 破皮....嚴重甚至死亡,當初試過無數化學藥劑,抱著不成功就撤缸的心態,終於找到最好的殺扁蟲藥,就是KCl,讓扁蟲因鉀離子中毒而死,氯化鉀比市面上任何扁蟲藥更好用更便宜(先跟所有有賣扁蟲藥的贊助商say sorry),臭酸曾叫我分享此文章,因為前一陣子釣魚沒空,一直拖到現在才分享:em01:

相信南部不少人(包括我)已成功下主缸殺完所有扁蟲,而且sps傷亡超低,甚至零傷亡,以下是我的分享,適用於任何珊瑚的簡疫(SPS和LPS皆可),亦可下主缸殺紅火蟻和槍蝦

*以下劑量以殺扁蟲和紅火蟻為設計

1.檢疫
1L海水對應麥當勞玉米農湯湯匙的KCL半匙(亦可更多一點),攪拌溶解後,再放入sps或LPS(請珍惜生命先將sps的共生蝦蟹挑出來:em03:),浸泡20~30分鐘,扁蟲會全數死亡飄出,sps要拿出來前先在溶液中晃幾下,讓少數卡在sps上的扁蟲順利掉落,再將sps放回主缸乾淨的水,若sps健康應該一小時內就會展毛,若在sps浸泡期間發現吐黏膜(吐共生藻)或稍微退色,那些都是正常現象,代表sps還算健康,2~7天就會復原,若是sps泡完KCL後脫皮,那只能說那顆sps早在頻死狀況,您無須太難過:em05:



2.主缸下KCl殺扁蟲和紅火蟻
主缸下KCl一般療程最完美是1個月內3次(我只下2次),也就是說第1天下藥後隔15天再下藥,再隔15下最後一次,其目的是為了確保剛孵出的小扁蟲也徹底殺死,以下分幾點說明:


(1)生物對鉀離子耐受度不一
一般小甲殼類在600PPM已經中毒,較嬌弱的清潔蝦 共生蝦蟹 機械蝦...等會慢慢死亡,若是你的魚缸這類生物莫名其妙的死,即表示鉀離子已過高,一般藍腳寄居蟹和小螃蟹可耐受至700PPM,槍蝦則更高!以我下藥經驗,兩次下藥讓總水體鉀離子超過1500PPM,浸泡30分鐘的結果,扁跳蝦 小槍蝦 剛毛蟲幾近全死,當初以為連槍蝦都殺的一乾二淨,結果還有兩隻較大的槍蝦倖存,如果將浸泡時間拉長,或許可以一並解決槍蝦的問題! 至於魚類對鉀離子的耐受度一般也在600~700PPM,700PPM的鉀離子足以讓缸中的魚全數死亡(只是時間長短罷了),曾經在主缸一瞬間下至700PPM鉀離子,結果眼見黃三角和藍面立刻心臟麻痺休克,隨即撈起放入正常海水沖,所幸都有救活,生物對鉀離子耐受度不一,並沒有辦法對每一種生物去做耐受度實驗,故在我們下藥之前,要儘可能將所有生物撈起(包括 魚 蝦 寄居蟹 食藻螺 湯皮參 海膽.....)才不會因為下藥後大量生物死忙,造成硝化系統的負擔


(2)關於劑量
一般有在補鉀離子的缸子其鉀離子約在400~500PPM,下藥劑量1kg/500L海水(可增加1000PPM),可使總水體鉀離子達1500PPM;若是沒在補鉀的缸子,建議下藥劑量1.25kg/500L海水,亦可使總水體鉀離子達1500PPM,先用大水桶在缸外溶解適當用量的KCl,再緩緩加入主缸,絕對不可將粉狀KCl直接投入主缸,下藥後不關主循環和造流,有流可以幫助死忙的扁蟲由珊瑚體表吹出,讓珊瑚浸泡30分鐘(此時可以好好欣賞扁蟲被殺死的盛況),待30分鐘後再盡量將海水全部抽出換新海水


(3)下藥後的影響
即便你將生物抓了再乾淨,下藥後活石中其實有很多生物死亡,瞬間大量有機鹽類增加,爆藻是必然的!來個100~200隻寄居蟹配合幾隻倒吊,再加上勤換慮綿和吸附劑,相信各為sps高手控制鹽類的能力都很好,這個不是問題,在此不再多說! sps因為鹽類波動而走下波約2~3週,隨著鹽類穩定降低後會慢慢的回色


(4)關於KCl對扁蟲卵的殺傷力
個人認為高濃度鉀是能殺死扁蟲卵的,以上次經驗來說,第一次下藥,整缸飄出大大小小約400~500隻扁蟲,擔心扁蟲卵有卵膜保護殺不死,隔15天待卵孵化再下第二次藥,果然還有扁蟲,都是剛孵出的0.1公分的,但總數不到10隻,顯然多數卵因高濃度鉀而死亡,理論上,為了安全起見應該下第3次,但是我偷懶沒下第3次,至少在我缸中目前為止不再有扁蟲的蹤跡


以上分享屬個人智慧財產權,可收藏,但是要轉載請務必經過本人SYJ(蕭于傑)同意


為了讓文章可以分享更廣
本文在syj阿傑同意下特別請danmhippo兄代為翻譯為英文
不過不管是原本或是翻譯的英文,在沒有作者'、譯者的授權使用下請不要將完整或部份的文章
任意的轉貼到其他網站

*****以下文章為上頭的英文版*****

About 2 months ago my reef tank had an outbreak of flatworms (the one’s that is lethal to SPS). Some of the flatworms are the size of pinky nails, and some as small as rice grains. They have covered on almost all SPS in the tank. Flatworm eggs litters over the base of SPS. Tentacles retracted, colors faded, tissues bloated, and some died eventually. I have tried many chemicals, every time thinking this is the last resort, and finally I found the best solution to this problem, that is Potassium Chloride, killing flatworms by potassium poisoning. KCl is cheaper than any other medication on the market (…….and apologies to all flatworm medication makers………).

I have shared this to many aquarists in my area, and including myself, have successfully rid flatworm outbreaks, and fatality of SPS is extremely low. In many cases, the treatment yields no fatality of SPS at all.

Below is my guideline for potassium dosing, and this is useful as coral dip, as well as to be used to treat entire tank for the red bugs, flatworms and pistol shrimps.

1. As the dip (Dosage for killing red bugs and flatworms)
Mix 1 McDonald soup-spoon of KCl to one liter of seawater (need not be exact). Mix well and let dissolve. Dip the SPS or LPS in the solution for 20~30 minutes. Flatworms will die and float away from the coral. You should swirl the coral in the KCl solution to help dislodging those more stubborn ones. After the treatment, place the coral back to the tank. Please remove any crustaceans that you wish to keep before this procedure, eg. symbiotic crabs.

After treatment, healthy SPS should extend the tentacles within an hour. It is normal to observe excess mucous on the SPS, in rare cases, slight color fading. This indicates the SPS is still in good health which responds immediately to changes. However if the SPS RTN severely, it is indication that the SPS is already very weak.

2. To treat entire tank for red bugs and flatworms
Maintank dosing is best done with 3 treatments. 15 days apart between each treatment. I did only 2 treatments last time. In another word, second treatment administered 15 days after the first. This is to ensure flatworm larvae are all killed. To administer, you must acknowledge below:
a. Potassium tolerance differences
Small crustaceans generally does not tolerate more than 600ppm of potassium. At this level, the more delicate cleaner shrimp, symbiotic shrimps, camel shrimps…etc. will die slowly. If not treating your tank and you still noticed crustaceans slowly die in your tank, chances are your tank potassium level is too high. Some hermit and small hitchhiker crabs could tolerate up to 700ppm of potassium, and pistol shrimps can go higher.

I have done 2 dips at level exceeds 1500ppm. Each for 30 minutes dip at this level, amphipod, small pistol shrimps, and fireworm have all died. Just when I think I have killed all pistol shrimps too, 2 larger pistols were later discovered survived. The 2 larger pistols could have been killed, maybe, if I have dipped longer.

Fish also have limited tolerance of potassium at 600~700ppm. At 700ppm, this level is enough to kill most of the fish in the tank, or just a matter of time. There were one case where the Pomacanthus xanthometopon and Zebrasoma flavescens goes straight into shocks when I suddenly raised the main tank potassium level to 700ppm. I immediately put both into clean seawater and luckily they both survived. Every organism’s tolerance of potassium level is different, and it is difficult as hobbyist to test each specie for their tolerance level. Thus we should always net out all non-coral organisms out of the tank prior to the tank treatment.

b. Dosage
Those that supplement potassium to the tank usually tried to maintain it at 400~500ppm. Knowing you should already have this level present in the tank, we must include them into our final concentration. For these tanks, adding 1kg of KCL per 500 liter of seawater (raising 1000ppm) would make the total concentration to 1500ppm (original 500ppm + added 1000ppm).

Those tanks that do not regularly dose potassium, I would recommend to add 1.25kg of KCl per each 500 liter of seawater, which also brings the potassium level of the tank to 1500ppm.

It is important that you should always totally dissolve KCl outside of the tank, and pour the dissolved mixture to mix with the tank. KCl powder may not dissolve completely if you simply pour the powder into the tank.

Water flow need not be turned off after dosing. The water flow actually helps dislodging the flatworm from the surfaces. Dosing should take 30 minutes (you can now sit back, and enjoy the flatworms floating up to heaven). Afterwards, drain treated water out of the system as much as possible, and replace with fresh new seawater.

c. After dosing,
Even if you think you have removed all non-coral organisms out of the tank before dosing, chances are that there will be many more still left in the tank, and have died during this process. Nutrient explosion and algae bloom usually follows immediately. Biological means of nutrient removal (hermits, herbivores) in combination with vigorous mechanical filtration are highly recommended after dosing. Most SPS experts are veterans at nutrient control and should be capable of handling this situation. SPS coloration may shifts due to availability of excess nutrient, but should return back to normal in a few weeks.

d. KCl effectiveness on flatworm eggs.
It is my personal opinion that high level of potassium should be able to kill flatworm eggs. My last experience is that after the first treatment, and second treatment follows after 15 days. Sure enough, there are still flatworms died on the second treatment, but all are less than 1mm in length, and no more than 10 of them. It is apparent that most eggs were killed in the first treatment due to high level of potassium. To be safe, I should administer a third treatment, but I was lazy, and flatworms were no where to be found after second treatment anyway.
請問SYJ大大
米粉跟腦類 剛從水族館買回來 也適用KCI檢疫嗎
 

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